Hello from Madagascar! After spending 3 full lazy months (because we had a hope to get on a boat to Madagascar and decided to wait) in Mauritius we are already in Antananarivo. It is cool up here, especially in the evenings - good for brain work, picture editing and blog writing :). So, I can tell a little bit about cycling and travelling conditions, though overall cycling time was just a small part from what we spent there...
Island of Mauritius
Mauritius is a small island nation close to Madagascar and is referred as a piece of paradise because of the favourable climate, beautiful scenery, blue lagoons that are protected by a reef (third largest in the world), ~150km of sandy beaches and friendly nature.
The main island is 65km long and 45km wide, which makes ~200km by road around the island - can make it in one or two days, but there is enough of time to travel around slowly and exploring every place.
Roads
The main roads are good and while cycling it is quite common to meet other cyclists, mostly professionals or amateurs training. Bicycle is also quite a popular means of transport in the villages and towns. So motor transport drivers are quite used to cycles and we were feeling quite safe, except some situations - most of the drivers signal several times before overtaking and overtake making big distance, though the roads are narrow enough in most places. Bus and truck drivers are often not so careful and get you scared and angry sometimes, but only sometimes. We didn't use many secondary roads, but a bumpy gravel road towards the Rochester falls (and some other) was a bit shaky for our heavy loaded bikes, so we had to walk them - but only for a couple of km. It would be a rare case to get on a such road.
We did a round trip along the coastal roads and other areas we visited by foot/rented transport/hitchhiking (hitchhiking was VERY easy!).
People
This was a very nice surprise for us to find out how polite, relaxed, friendly and helpful people are. I guess they live quite a happy life (or it is not accepted to show bad emotions, except some cases), but we were feeling very welcome and safe. It was a big holiday after intense traveling in Asia and it was one of the reasons why we stayed for 3 months instead of 3 weeks - we were just feeling it was a right place for having a rest.
500 years ago the island was still uninhabited. First it was dutch settling, then french (300 years ago), later british took the control (less than 200 years ago) and established slavery - they were bringing slaves from Madagascar and Africa to work in sugarcane fields, they also persuaded many indians to come, promising a prosper life. So it is a very new and multicultural country with europeans, indians, africans and chinese people. The island is counting only several generations of people living there.
There are three main languages used here - french, creole and english (also some asian languages), so it was no problem communicating in english as almost everybody speaks it fluently (the only disadvantage, if I can call it like that, is that we didn't learn any french which was in the plans:)).
Nature
Due to the origin, age and isolation the country is a home to some of the rarest world's plants and animals, though the overall biodiversity is not very rich. After human settlement the majority island's forests were destroyed for growing sugarcanes, expensive ebony trees were cut for export, non-native species introduced and invasive species brought resulting in the extinction of many endemic animals and plants. Now there is only 2% of native forests left and government is putting efforts for saving the remaining of rare Masacrene wildlife. Visiting some islands can be a bit expensive, but visiting the Black River Gorges national park doesn't cost anything.
Activities
There are many things to do in Mauritius, depending on everyones taste and pocket. First of all, Mauritius is famous for it's beaches and water sports - surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, waterskiing, sailing, fishing and others. There are many schools where you can learn and/or rent equipment, transportation or any other things that you might need. There are all kinds of special possibilities if you just have money:).
Diving is also widely available, especially in the northern and eastern (touristic) areas. I did several dives in Tamarind, but my expectations were higher (other people that I met said the same).
For those who love trekking, there are enough of treks to do - some are more popular, others - more adventurous where you have to find a path yourself (or there is no path), or sometimes sneak into private property (i don't encourage but we did it - most of the land is private, there are some fenced hunting areas so it is always good to find everything out before) for beautiful views from the top.
There are also all kinds of other touristic attractions and ways to spend more money (and of course there are all these luxurious activities like golf, horse riding and etc.)..
Prices: accommodation
Mauritius is known in the world as a luxurious destination and of course there are very expensive hotels and villas for thousand dollars/night and up. But it is possible to find accommodation for quite an affordable price, especially for a long term stay (we saw an advertisement for a long period rent - 3 room villa with small pool - 16500MUR/month). The least we payed per couple per night was 500MUR, the most - 800MUR.
Prices: eating
Like with accommodation. Restaurants are expensive comparing to Asia, but not expensive comparing to European prices. Local places offer 50MUR and up for fried rice or noodles. Samosas and other snacks are cheap (from 3MUR/piece) , Roti - starting with 10, usually 25 or more, depending on the filling. Maybe somewhere it is even cheaper. Making food at home is a good idea too. Fish is cheap (140MUR/kg for thuna, smaller fish 150MUR/kg and up). These prices were in La Gaulette, in Grand Baie it was almost as twice.
So as a rule, touristic places are more expensive, attractions for tourist are expensive too, like everywhere else. And souvenirs are overpriced, it is a good idea to do a big bargain if you need any. Some indian food shops tried to cheat us (maybe some others who are dealing tourists do it too) - be sure to check, ask prices and check the change.
Our cycling route
In total we did more than thousand kilometres (cant say exactly, because I didn't use the speedometer all the time) which is nothing in 3 months, but we were mostly staying in La Gaulette and were using bicycles to go to Le Morne or Tamarind (or just shop:)).
We started our trip in Mahebourg, where we landed by plane.
Our conclusion - Mauritius is a perfect place to chill out and relax, take holiday from anything, even holiday (like us:)). Cycling is a pleasure, though the island is quite small. People are really polite and friendly, no language barrier. We loved it. But now we will explore Madagascar.
Island of Mauritius
Mauritius is a small island nation close to Madagascar and is referred as a piece of paradise because of the favourable climate, beautiful scenery, blue lagoons that are protected by a reef (third largest in the world), ~150km of sandy beaches and friendly nature.
The main island is 65km long and 45km wide, which makes ~200km by road around the island - can make it in one or two days, but there is enough of time to travel around slowly and exploring every place.
Roads
The main roads are good and while cycling it is quite common to meet other cyclists, mostly professionals or amateurs training. Bicycle is also quite a popular means of transport in the villages and towns. So motor transport drivers are quite used to cycles and we were feeling quite safe, except some situations - most of the drivers signal several times before overtaking and overtake making big distance, though the roads are narrow enough in most places. Bus and truck drivers are often not so careful and get you scared and angry sometimes, but only sometimes. We didn't use many secondary roads, but a bumpy gravel road towards the Rochester falls (and some other) was a bit shaky for our heavy loaded bikes, so we had to walk them - but only for a couple of km. It would be a rare case to get on a such road.
We did a round trip along the coastal roads and other areas we visited by foot/rented transport/hitchhiking (hitchhiking was VERY easy!).
People
This was a very nice surprise for us to find out how polite, relaxed, friendly and helpful people are. I guess they live quite a happy life (or it is not accepted to show bad emotions, except some cases), but we were feeling very welcome and safe. It was a big holiday after intense traveling in Asia and it was one of the reasons why we stayed for 3 months instead of 3 weeks - we were just feeling it was a right place for having a rest.
500 years ago the island was still uninhabited. First it was dutch settling, then french (300 years ago), later british took the control (less than 200 years ago) and established slavery - they were bringing slaves from Madagascar and Africa to work in sugarcane fields, they also persuaded many indians to come, promising a prosper life. So it is a very new and multicultural country with europeans, indians, africans and chinese people. The island is counting only several generations of people living there.
There are three main languages used here - french, creole and english (also some asian languages), so it was no problem communicating in english as almost everybody speaks it fluently (the only disadvantage, if I can call it like that, is that we didn't learn any french which was in the plans:)).
Nature
Due to the origin, age and isolation the country is a home to some of the rarest world's plants and animals, though the overall biodiversity is not very rich. After human settlement the majority island's forests were destroyed for growing sugarcanes, expensive ebony trees were cut for export, non-native species introduced and invasive species brought resulting in the extinction of many endemic animals and plants. Now there is only 2% of native forests left and government is putting efforts for saving the remaining of rare Masacrene wildlife. Visiting some islands can be a bit expensive, but visiting the Black River Gorges national park doesn't cost anything.
Landscape in the Black River NP
The blue tailed gecko (Phelsuma cepediana)
Mauritian fody (Foudia rubra)
White-tailed Tropicbird (Phaethon lepturus)
Landscape in the west
On the eastern coast
Activities
There are many things to do in Mauritius, depending on everyones taste and pocket. First of all, Mauritius is famous for it's beaches and water sports - surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, waterskiing, sailing, fishing and others. There are many schools where you can learn and/or rent equipment, transportation or any other things that you might need. There are all kinds of special possibilities if you just have money:).
Diving is also widely available, especially in the northern and eastern (touristic) areas. I did several dives in Tamarind, but my expectations were higher (other people that I met said the same).
For those who love trekking, there are enough of treks to do - some are more popular, others - more adventurous where you have to find a path yourself (or there is no path), or sometimes sneak into private property (i don't encourage but we did it - most of the land is private, there are some fenced hunting areas so it is always good to find everything out before) for beautiful views from the top.
There are also all kinds of other touristic attractions and ways to spend more money (and of course there are all these luxurious activities like golf, horse riding and etc.)..
Lay down..
..or get up
Prices: accommodation
Mauritius is known in the world as a luxurious destination and of course there are very expensive hotels and villas for thousand dollars/night and up. But it is possible to find accommodation for quite an affordable price, especially for a long term stay (we saw an advertisement for a long period rent - 3 room villa with small pool - 16500MUR/month). The least we payed per couple per night was 500MUR, the most - 800MUR.
Our favourite view
Prices: eating
Like with accommodation. Restaurants are expensive comparing to Asia, but not expensive comparing to European prices. Local places offer 50MUR and up for fried rice or noodles. Samosas and other snacks are cheap (from 3MUR/piece) , Roti - starting with 10, usually 25 or more, depending on the filling. Maybe somewhere it is even cheaper. Making food at home is a good idea too. Fish is cheap (140MUR/kg for thuna, smaller fish 150MUR/kg and up). These prices were in La Gaulette, in Grand Baie it was almost as twice.
So as a rule, touristic places are more expensive, attractions for tourist are expensive too, like everywhere else. And souvenirs are overpriced, it is a good idea to do a big bargain if you need any. Some indian food shops tried to cheat us (maybe some others who are dealing tourists do it too) - be sure to check, ask prices and check the change.
Our cycling route
In total we did more than thousand kilometres (cant say exactly, because I didn't use the speedometer all the time) which is nothing in 3 months, but we were mostly staying in La Gaulette and were using bicycles to go to Le Morne or Tamarind (or just shop:)).
We started our trip in Mahebourg, where we landed by plane.
| Mahebourg - Blue bay - Souillac | Driving up and down, very windy. In some places it seemed that the road leads down, but it is actually up, quite an annoying feeling - like somebody would pull you from the back:)). The scenery is mostly sugarcane plantations. Spent 3 nights in a lodge (2 room apartment - 1000MUR for 4p) |
| Souillac - La Gaulette | Probably it was the most beautiful distance in all Mauritius. The road goes along the coast, beautiful small wild beaches at the second half. We liked la Gaulette and spent several weeks (750MUR 1 room apartment for 2p) |
| La Gaulette - Baie du Tombeau | Passing Port Louis is a little bit annoying - noisy and dusty. But it is ok:) After Port Louis we stayed in a "villa" (as it says, but it is more like a guesthouse) on the beach - quiet place. (500MUR room for 2p - with a small misunderstanding) |
| Baie du Tombeau - Cap Malheureux | Passing the most touristic areas, so you see more high walls of luxurious villas than beaches, which are just behind those villas. Anyway, nice ride, not intense traffic. In Cap Malheureux we spent 3 nights renting a 2 room apartment for 4p for 1000MUR/night) |
| Cap Malheureux - Roches Noires | The beginning of the east cost is very nice, no traffic. We spent a night camping in a construction building. |
| Roches Noires - Belle Mare - Trou D'eau Douce -Belle Mare | It was very close to go to Belle Mare, where we went to the furthermost point of the beach near hotel - calm and beautiful beach. We went to Trou D'eau Douce to search for accommodation, but then we came back to Belle Mare and in the end were camping near the public beach. |
| Belle Mare - Blue bay - Souillac | For the first time we woke up early and went a bit further. It's a nice coastal road, a bit windy. Came to Souillac to the same place as before. |
| Souillac – La Gaulette | Back to La Gaulette, where we spent one and half month :) 1000MUR/night 2 room apartment for 4p. |
Our conclusion - Mauritius is a perfect place to chill out and relax, take holiday from anything, even holiday (like us:)). Cycling is a pleasure, though the island is quite small. People are really polite and friendly, no language barrier. We loved it. But now we will explore Madagascar.
